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FAQs


Q1. What is wet spot ? and how do you stop it!

Answer - when the wax does not fully adhere to the glass surface , leaving round marks representing air bubbles.
remedy - difficult to be 100%, but using low melt waxes, you could also add petroleum jelly or similar,  warm the glass before pouring, using non alcohol based Fragrnce Oils, or just cheat and use coloured or frosted glass.

Q2. What are the best moulds to use?

Answer - very much depends on candle type, finish , shape and size etc. Metal moulds tend to provide high shine finished surface, especially if used in conjunction with a water bath, disadvantages are METAL moulds get to hot handle, mould seal tends to melt, prone to rusting or oxidising and dent if dropped and the small akluminium votive mouds are easily knocked over. PERSPEX/POLYCARBONATE moulds can crack and shatter, or melt if used with alcohol based FOs. POLYTHENE moulds are robust, can be dropped and do not bend, do not transfer heat as fast as metal, so are easier to handle, SILICONE moulds are expensive but can serve you very well for years, similar to latex moulds the moulded candle is removed easier before the candle has totally cooled.

Result best all rounders are polythene which last forever and reject many of the above issues, and are low cost.

Q3. - How Much wax do I need?

Answer - to calculate how much wax you need for containers, first fill the container/s with water to the approx desired level, then weigh the water , the weight of water will be approximately 10% higher than a equivalent amount of wax.

Q4. - What size wick do I want?

Answer - wicks/wicking are sized according to the desired finished candle diameter, wax used and additives put in the wax eg a 50mm candle wick is to make candles 50mm in diameter, so just measure the width of your  container or mould and that is generally the approximate wick size you need, if you are using natural waxes or beeswax, these tend to be more viscous, so choose a wick size one size up when using these types of waxes, but all wicks of all kinds of candles need to be burnt test for suitability.

Q5. - Which wax shall I use?

Answer - What sort of candle are you making, waxes are grouped as natural or mineral, with container or pillar blends. If making a container candle then basic mineral paraffin wax will slightly adhere to the walls if no additives are put in such a stearin, but does not perform as well as a proprietary container wax, which is softer and more likely to adhere to the container walls, using paraffin wax with stearin to harden the wax, will create a lollipop when cooled, basically lifting out of the container when cold.

So choose the wax according to what type of candle you are making, pillar waxes or paraffin wax + stearin for pillar type candles and wax melts, container waxes for candles made to burn in the container such as teacup candles.

Q6. - Can I dye Natural wax ?

Answer - Yes you can , but you will not achieve a clear bright colour, because most natural waxes have cloudy properties when cooled, which causes the wax to set with a cloudy appearance, therefore most natural waxes when dyed are pastel milky finish, remember Soy wax has a natural beautifull ivory colour , so you have to add more dye than mineral waxes. Diamond Dye chips and liquid dyes work well with natural waxes, whereas majority of dyes works with mineral wax, especially if enhanced by using stearin 

























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